Wednesday, September 17, 2014

HSF14 Challenge #17 - Yellow

I did not get very lucky with the color challenges this year.  Although very fond of black and white, my two least favorite colors in the world are pink and yellow (in that order).  But I am determined to complete all challenges this year.  Maybe.  Hopefully.  My initial plan was to make a 1912ish gown that I planned as gold, but I thought I could work in rich yellows.  Life has intervened more than once, and it got pushed to Poetry in Motion, then to All That Glitters.  I had planned to make a chemise to wear under the gown for Terminology, but ended up making a cloche hat instead.  Fortunately, my cotton voile was a shade of pale yellow, so I bumped it a challenge.

I have a fantastic reproduction of an Altman's 1915 catologue that I used for reference.  I didn't use a pattern, just a lot of eyeballing and trial and error.  I was planning to do an Envelope Chemise, but the mock-up looked a bit too much like a diaper.  So I extended the length and made a long chemise.  Due to illness and general grumpiness, I finished late and have no in-progress photos to share.  But I think it turned out well enough, and I don't despise the color.  It's a cotton voile I got for a steal at Fabric.com, but whoa is it sheer.  Gonna have to plan a pair of drawers if I ever want to wear the underwear on it's own.  I didn't get too historical on the lace, because I didn't think I had the time or resources to get the good stuff.  So I basically just picked what I liked at Joann.  The yellow grosgrain was a last minute substitute as it turned out my white grosgrain was too wide.  The entire garment is French seamed.


Inspiration pictures...plus a little help from Leimomi's pinterest


The Challenge: Yellow

Fabric: Yellow cotton voile
Pattern:  None
Year: 1915
Notions: White lace, white ribbon, yellow grosgrain
How historically accurate is it? The cotton voile is an appropriate fabric, and the construction techniques could all have been done that way.  The lace is probably less so.

Hours to complete: I couldn't even guess, I worked on this so intermittently.
First worn: Not yet.
Total cost: $25

And the result:

Finished chemise

The front

The back

Lace trim

Paired with my 1914 corset

Tuesday, September 2, 2014

HSF14 Challenge #16 - Terminology

Boy, I went back and forth and back again on this challenge.  Initially, I was going to make a cloche.  Then I decided to make the cloche for $10 or less and to make a chemise in cotton voile and/or lawn for Terminology.  Then my cloche tanked badly during construction, so I scrapped the idea until later.  Then, with Dragoncon approaching, I decided I needed more time for my late Edwardian gown, and pushed it back a challenge.  The cotton chemise happened to be yellow as well, so it will be seen for challenge #17, and I was back to the cloche for Terminology!  Whew.

I had an old beaten up felt hat that was purchased so long ago I don't remember why I bought it or how much it cost.  I steamed it and shaped it and tried to beat it into submission, but no matter what I did, I wasn't happy with the shape.
Original hat - it's seen better days

Post steaming




None of my attempt thrilled me.

I pulled out a modern cloche that I bought from Target to show my Husband* to explain what was bothering me.  While not looking very period, the modern cloche had a nice shape and was better material.  The one I was trying to make wasn't fitting my head as nicely.  He asked my why I didn't just use the modern one.  I said I thought it would be cheating to just redecorate a modern hat, and I wasn't sure I was ready to cut it apart.  He asked me when was the last time I wore it.  Since I couldn't come up with an answer, I decided he was on to something.  So I set aside the old hat and started on the new one.  I pulled off the felt bow, opened the brim and found a plastic hat wire. I did not expect that.  I steamed it and reshaped it, and pinned the brim into a more period appropriate shape.  I tried a few different looks, and settled on a very short brim in back, a slightly longer front, and points on either side of the head.  I decorated the hat with some wide crocheted lace, a velvet ribbon, floofy feathers, and a rhinestone brooch.  Not gonna lie, it's mostly glued on, and I stitched the plastic wire back into the brim for shape.  I'm actually really happy with this hat.  It's a fun little cloche and I know it's something I'll wear around.
Original hat

Post steaming 

Shaped  and pinned

And stitched


With lace and velvet

Back 

Front
Fabulous feathers



The Challenge: Terminology

Fabric: None
Pattern:  None
Year: 1920something
Notions: Black wool felt hat, black crocheted lace, black velvet ribbon, black feathers, brooch
How historically accurate is it? Erm...in construction, not very.  But I think the look replicated the era rather well.  

Hours to complete: A few hours.  
First worn: Not yet.
Total cost: $20ish, although I can't remember how much the brooch cost

*Shout out to my wonderful Husband who knows nothing about costuming and isn't really interested, but will always listen to me rant or wax enthusiastic about it and offer support and opinions readily.

And the result:




And a little side project I built at the same time to take to Dragoncon:
The corset and the bracers are from my first Cap costume two years ago.  The only new bit is the hooded dress.